So, unless you have a high quality torque wrench, and one you know works I would skip the torqueing process. I could've tried a long left hand drill bit if I had one but I didn't. There's a bunch of things to consider replacing or repairing once your doing this job yourself. Oil loss is very little- doesn't register on oil level over the last 7K miles since the last change. I figured I'd do the obvious first then wash the engine down and recheck for leaks. Worked for me to remove a bolt that broke in half for my valve cover gasket. The first bolt I used it on something didn't feel right felt like I was tightening too much , so I stopped.
I know Toyota used to make this Black silicone for engine oil applications. N54 M8 x 26 Replace screwsThread repairsexclusively with Al HelicoilJointing torque and angle of rotation must be observed without fail. I raised the car to the 3rd notch on the average jack stand if that makes sense. I'll leave the brand up to you; just use what you're comfortable with, that fits your driving habits. Insert a screw extractor into the hole that has been drilled into the bolt and rotate it counterclockwise with a small crescent wrench to remove the bolt.
So, I made some modifications, and felt comfortable with the thread depth at four revolutions. To replace it means removing the intake manifold. The reason why I chose the 3 point style bar over the 2 point was for stability. Can you tell me the weight capacity and brand? The job took me all day considering I wasn't working on it the whole time, but I would say 7-9 hours depending on your skill set and available tools. Recommend you just start from the top of the engine and fix the leaks as you find them, after new valve cover gaskets, and a few other seals you may discover that it's not actually your oil pan leaking after all. From time to time, a bolt will be cross-threaded or over-tightened and will break off in the block while replacing an oil pan. Now remove the bolts for the engine mounts.
So I didn't really care what the condition of the old one was I was changing it. But I'm down to 2 drop of engine oil on the garage now compare to when I bought it. Even the diff was leaking but for whatever reason changing the fluid and driving the car fixed that leak. First make sure you order the right oil pan bolt kit for your car. Good god was is awsome.
Two broken timing cover bolts and one external head bolt near the oil filter housing had been mentioned in the class as being notorious for breaking and causing oil leaks that the oil filter housing gasket was being blamed for. Thought I was a little sloppy during my last oil change. Merry Christmas to you and yours everyone. I completely agree, great write up btw. Specifically, I used a file and a Dremel tool to take off a few thousandths. It on the driver side and one of the harder ones to get to.
Additionally, I seriously doubt the tow hook would fail due to my careful modifications Regardless of if the hook was used for holding the engine or towing the car. The cam o ring is as up high and forward as you can get. There seems to be no way to do it properly without dropping the front subframe unless your going to cut the gasket, but I would never do it like that. Should I leave it alone or try to extract and put a new bolt? Once you have the pan positioned go ahead and remove your drain bolt by hand. It's the connector that goes through the front of the valve cover. Do not attempt to unbolt and pull the motor out! The average weekend mechanic can easily accomplish this repair.
I don't own an engine support and would like your advice on choosing one. Unbolt the power steering hose at the right front of the sub frame. The oil pan gasket leak was obvious and the filter housing was too, except the front of the engine had a little more oil than you'd expect from just the oil filter housing leaking. Now tighten up all the sub frame bolts then the engine mount bolts. I'd start with ensuring the valve cover gasket isn't leaking.
The sub frame will drop a few inches plus you will need to be able to work under it. They sent photos of it, and I can tell by looking at the photos that at least one of the bolts was broken prior to the heads being removed, and combined with my previous experience with this shop showing that they are wholly trustworthy, I have no reason to doubt the others were as well. I know Toyota used to make this Black silicone for engine oil applications. Make sure you start them by hand as to not cross thread anything. I used a pliers to squeeze one way which unlocks 2 sides, at this point I placed a mini flathead screwdriver in to unlock the other 2, then wiggle the pan as you work them free. My decision to modify the tow hook was also eased, since it's a replaceable item. N54 M6 x 20 Replace screwsThread repairs exclusively with Al HelicoilJointing torque and angle of rotation must be observed without fail.